God of God, light of light,
Lo, he abhors not the Virgin's womb;
Very God, begotten, not created
Lo, he abhors not the Virgin's womb;
Very God, begotten, not created
Seasonal words, appropriately after a seasonal
drink – a schooner of a very dark and rich Madeira. Why the reference to the
carol? Gordon’s Wine Bar (London’s oldest wine bar, established 1890) is more
like a progeny that has grown and developed, and less like an entity created by
design. Situated on Villiers Street on the way down from Charing Cross railway station
to Embankment tube station, one could easily miss the (now disused) somewhat
tatty brown door, which until relatively recently opened to a downward leading
staircase. Access now is via an alley to the side, which is also home to a file
of outdoor seating.
The bar itself is dark, dingy, cramped, musty and
usually extremely busy. Sound enticing? I didn’t think so. But think of being
near the front of a rock concert. How would you describe that? Probably in
adjectives that would make it sound like the seventh level of Hell, yet many,
many people pawn their grandparents just to achieve such a thing. It’s down to
the uniqueness of what’s on offer, the artistic ambience and the X-Factor, which cannot easily be defined
and which is so eagerly sought by talentless buffoons for our amusement (or,
more likely, avoidance) on Saturday nights.
As previously hinted, Gordon’s has this X-Factor.
You can’t set out to assemble it from an identikit construction kit. You can’t
buy it in and you can’t fake it. This is something that has matured over the
last 126 years, rounding off the tannins and mellowing the sharpness, and yes,
there is bricking around the edges. In every sense. In a building that has
known occupants including Samuel Pepys and Rudyard Kipling, the odd ooze of
charisma should not be unexpected. The fact the current owner (Mr Gordon) is
unrelated to its founder (also Mr Gordon) is just a pleasing twist and a
reminder that there is a titbit of interest around every corner, and corners
there are aplenty.
At least part of the reason for the success of
this place must be that they have stuck to their guns. The only drink they sell
is wine, including fortified varieties. No selling out to meet the latest here today, gone tomorrow fad, just a steadfast
commitment to what they know best. So come prepared, come quickly, and,
definitely do, come all ye faithful.